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Watches & Wonders 2023: Vacheron Constantin celebrates retrograde displays


In a retrograde date display, the hands do not make a complete revolution around the dial, but instead traverse the measurement segment, then jump back to the starting point and start over. The retrograde display first appeared in Vacheron Constantin's pocket watches in the 1920s. It wasn't until 1940 that the Manufacture produced the first wristwatch with a retrograde date display and a minute repeater, named after the man who commissioned it in 1935: Don Pancho. In the early 1990s, Vacheron Constantin re-interpreted this characteristic complication in a number of watches, such as the Mercator in 1994 and the later Saltarello in 1997. This year, the retrograde display took center stage, with at least three novelties in three different collections.

Overseas moon phase and retrograde date display
Launched in 1996, the Overseas series can be regarded as the successor of the 222, the first sports fashion watch launched by Vacheron Constantin in 1977. For example, it brings a solid, elegant and versatile look. For the first time in history, this series of watches is equipped with a retrograde date display combined with a precise astronomical moon phase, and its technical complexity is displayed on the dial.

The case of the new watch belongs to the symbolic series of Vacheron Constantin's most sporty watchmaking ability, but its recognition is not reduced at all. The 41 mm stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished, while the six-wing bezel shapes the brand's Maltese cross logo. The case height is 10.48mm and the water resistance is 50m.


Overseas moon phase dial and retrograde date display
For the dials of the Overseas moon phase and retrograde date, Vacheron Constantin has achieved a particularly successful balance between sporty style and traditional watchmaking complications. The retrograde date display is located in the upper half, visually indicated by the central hand, while the precise moon phase display is located in the lower half of the blue lacquered dial. Known as the "Age of the Moon", this complication displays the phases of the moon from 0 to 29 ½, from which it is possible to read the number of days that have passed since the last new moon.

caliber
The watch is equipped with Vacheron Constantin's self-made 2460 R31L/2 automatic movement, with a power reserve of 40 hours. The 275 components of the movement and the oscillating weight in 22-carat gold can be admired through the open case back.

To round out the delivery, in addition to a steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp, the watch comes with a blue calfskin strap with gray stitching and a blue rubber strap. As another highlight, the watch is also equipped with a second stainless steel triple folding clasp, compatible with two additional straps.

Patrimony retrograde date and day display
Since the 1940s, Vacheron Constantin watches have featured a combination of metal cases and salmon-colored dials. Whether it is a stainless steel case (as in the Reference 4178 Chronograph), or a platinum case (as in the Reference 5000T), the color combination can be of interest to collectors and enthusiasts alike. Since 2022, the interplay of platinum and salmon has been the expression of a new aesthetic that is reflected in the various collections that the brand produces in limited quantities each year. Deeply rooted in the history of manufacture, the new Patrimony 950 platinum retrograde date and day display also inherits this timeless combination.

At the same time, the case of the new Patrimony retrograde date and day display is made of 950 platinum. The case has a diameter of 42.55 mm and a height of only 9.7 mm. Additionally, it offers 30 meters of water resistance.

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Inside the platinum case is a salmon-colored dial with a sunburst pattern. The brand's signature Maltese cross is proudly printed below the 12 o'clock marker. But here's a new interpretation reserved for the salmon-coloured dial: the 18-karat rose gold cross arms are sandblasted on one side and faceted on the other. The days and date are indicated retrograde with classic blued-steel hands, while the hours and minutes are indicated by 18-carat white gold hands. The outer ring of the dial is adorned with a delicate diamond-cut pearl in 18-carat white gold. This is where minimalist design meets elegance.

sports
Caliber 2460 R31R7/3 is a self-winding in-house movement with a power reserve of 40 hours. The open case back showcases a 22-carat gold skeletonized oscillating weight inspired by the Maltese cross. The main plate is decorated with circular graining on both sides, while the bridge plate on the back is decorated with Côtes de Genève pattern.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Display Openface
The Traditionnelle Tourbillon retrograde date Openface follows in the footsteps of Reference 47247. In 2002, this watch designed the retrograde date and part of the hollow dial as Vacheron Constantin's trademark. Today, with its tourbillon, retrograde date and haute horlogerie components, this novelty for 2023 continues to write the history of the Vacheron Constantin skeleton watch.

The result of a three-year research and development process, the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon combines two of the brand's hallmarks: a retrograde display and a skeletonized dial. The new watch is housed in an 18-carat rose gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 11.07 mm high, with graduated round cases and lugs; a hallmark of the Traditionelle collection.

dial
The open dial, composed of four key elements, also demonstrates how technical sophistication and watchmaking aesthetics come together. Gold Barton hour-markers surround faceted dauphine hour and minute hands, also in 18-carat 5N rose gold. Black PVD hands paired with 18-carat yellow gold and white lacquered hands indicate the retrograde date, while a matching tourbillon adds depth to the dial.

Inside is the 2162 R31 movement developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, hard at work. The automatic movement has a 72-hour power reserve and features a contemporary slate gray finish with a contrasting gold rotor, which can be admired through the open case back.

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Display Openface is fitted with a gray Mississippi alligator strap and alligator leather lining.